Deep Water Soloing (DWS), also known as Psicobloc
Deep Water Soloing (DWS), or Psicobloc, is a form of rock climbing where climbers ascend without ropes or protective gear above water. If they fall, the only landing is directly into the sea, a lake, or a deep enough river to ensure a safe plunge.
Origins of Deep Water Soloing (Psicobloc)
The Beginnings in England
The roots of Deep Water Soloing trace back to the 1970s and 1980s, when climbers started exploring sea cliffs without ropes. The idea was simple: use the water as a "natural crash pad" and climb with complete freedom.
The first recorded DWS attempts took place along the cliffs of Cornwall and Devon in England. British climbers like John "Woody" Woodward and Pete Oxley experimented on limestone cliffs plunging into the sea. These early attempts were more exploratory than systematic, but they laid the foundation for what would become Deep Water Soloing.
The Boom in Mallorca with Chris Sharma
Although DWS began in the UK, it truly gained popularity in the early 2000s thanks to Chris Sharma. He discovered the sea cliffs of Cala Barques in Mallorca, Spain, and fell in love with the idea of climbing without protection above the sea. In 2006, Sharma established "Es Pontàs," an extreme DWS route on a natural rock arch, which became an icon of the discipline and attracted climbers worldwide.
The Evolution of DWS
After Sharma’s groundbreaking climbs, DWS became increasingly popular, with new spots discovered worldwide, from Ha Long Bay in Vietnam to Tonsai in Thailand, the caves of Olympos in Greece, and even Sardinia.
Today, DWS is a recognized discipline within climbing, with dedicated locations, specialized guidebooks, and even competitions. Although it doesn’t yet have a structured competitive circuit, events and gatherings are held worldwide, attracting climbers who want to push their limits without the restrictions of traditional climbing.
Why the Name "Psicobloc"?
The term "Psicobloc" was coined by Spanish climber Miguel Riera, one of the pioneers of DWS in Mallorca. "Psico" refers to the psychological challenge of climbing without protection, while "Bloc" comes from bouldering, as Psicobloc routes are often short and very physical, similar to bouldering problems but with water as the only crash pad.
Key Features of DWS
No Protective Gear No ropes, harnesses, or quickdraws; the only safety measure is the water below.
Freedom of Movement Without the constraints of a rope, climbers can move freely, attempting bold and spectacular moves.
Adrenaline and Mental Control The challenge is entirely between the climber and the rock, with the psychological factor playing a crucial role, especially on exposed sections.
Unique Environment Climbing takes place on cliffs rising from the sea, often in breathtaking locations like coastal overhangs and sea caves.
Where Can You Practice DWS?
The best locations for DWS require deep, safe waters, avoiding areas with submerged rocks. Some of the world’s top DWS spots include:
Mallorca, Spain The birthplace of Psicobloc, made famous by Chris Sharma.
Ha Long Bay, Vietnam Climbing on massive limestone karsts rising from the sea.
Thailand (Tonsai, Krabi) Stunning cliffs above turquoise waters.
Sardinia, Italy Several cliffs perfect for DWS.
Essential Gear
Climbing shoes preferably soft for better grip on wet rock
Liquid chalk less likely to wash away in humid conditions
Swimsuit or shorts you’ll end up in the water most of the time!
Kayak or inflatable boat helpful for reaching remote cliffs and retrieving lost gear
Safety Tips and Precautions
Check the water depth Never jump without knowing what’s below!
Avoid rough seas Waves and currents can make it hard to return to shore.
Climb with a partner Even though it’s a solo discipline, having someone nearby for safety is crucial.
Be mindful of fatigue Falling from high up can be risky if you're not ready to absorb the impact with the water.
Best Deep Water Soloing Spots in Sardinia
Sardinia is one of the best destinations for Deep Water Soloing in Europe, thanks to its rugged coastline, limestone cliffs, and crystal-clear waters. Here are some of the top locations for DWS:
1 Masua and Pan di Zucchero (Iglesiente, Southwest Coast)
Why go? The giant limestone sea stack of Pan di Zucchero is an iconic climbing spot, and the Psicobloc potential here is incredible.
Recommended spots:
Pan di Zucchero: If you have a boat or kayak, you can approach the more accessible climbing sections.
Masua Cliffs: Some walls near Porto Flavia offer great routes, including caves beneath the cliffs.
2 Cala Gonone (Gulf of Orosei, East Coast)
Why go? Cala Gonone has breathtaking sea cliffs, caves, and walls plunging into the sea, making it a paradise for DWS.
Recommended spots:
Grotta dei Colombi: One of the most famous spots, with steep overhangs above the water.
Cala Fuili: Smaller cliffs perfect for warming up or trying DWS without extreme exposure.
Cala Luna: Stunning limestone cliffs with Psicobloc potential nearby.
3 Capo Caccia (Alghero, Northwest Coast)
Why go? The limestone cliffs of Capo Caccia offer overhanging walls above turquoise waters, creating an unforgettable climbing experience.
Recommended spots:
Neptune's Grotto: Some sectors have vertical and overhanging walls ideal for DWS.
Cala Dragunara: Smaller cliffs and caves great for beginners.
4 Cala Goloritzé (Baunei, East Coast)
Why go?
One of the most spectacular places in Sardinia, featuring the famous limestone pinnacle and vertical sea cliffs.
Recommended spots:
Cliffs near the beach, some sections offer good holds and safe water landings.
5 Cala Spinosa (Santa Teresa di Gallura, Northern Sardinia)
Why go?
Unlike other limestone areas, this spot features granite formations with unique climbing textures.
6 S'Archittu (Santa Caterina di Pittinurri, West Coast)
Why go?
S'Archittu is one of the most scenic DWS spots in Sardinia, named after its natural rock arch shaped by the sea and wind.
Tips for Deep Water Soloing in Sardinia
Best season: Spring, summer, and early autumn – the water is warmer, and the sea is calmer.
Check sea conditions: Always be aware of waves, wind, and currents.
Climb lower routes first: Start on 5-10m walls to get used to falling into the water.
Gear up properly: Climbing shoes and a kayak/inflatable boat will help you reach the best areas.
Stay safe: Don’t climb alone, and always check your landing zones for hidden rocks.
For any questions or recommendations, feel free to reach out!
